Passport To Burgundy, France
Where I slept, ate, & drank wine in the Burgundy region of France
Last month, my mother and I embarked on a 5 day trip to my dream wine destination, Burgundy.
To be honest, I had only really gotten into Burgundy wine over the past couple of years. It is a complex region to understand (the appellations and villages!), and it produces some of the best & most expensive wine in the world.
I remember the first time I tried a sip of Puligny-Montrachet (one of the 3 in the “golden triangle” of Burgundy). It was unlike anything I had ever tasted in my life. You can taste the terroir in the glass! Heavy limestone (I say “I want it to taste like I am licking a rock”… not the most discerning description), yet elegant & round.
Chardonnay haters - you may have just never tried a great white Burgundy! It truly is a completely different wine than the stereotypical “buttery, oaky cougar’s juice” so many Americans associate Chardonnay with.
And the red wines! The variance in the Pinot Noirs from the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south, as well as just between plots within those regions is astounding. We learned so much about how the different years influenced the wine so heavily, and we tasted it in the glass.
One of my favorite moments was actually on our first full day, when we were standing on the rooftop terrace of Le Manoir des Parcellaires De Saulx in Meursault. We tasted two wines from the same year - one village and one Premier Cru. The plots of vines of each were less than 100m apart but tasted completely different. That’s when it really clicked that the terroir and positioning to sunlight means everything to a bottle of wine.
I wanted to put together this guide because to be honest, Burgundy can be a fairly intimidating destination. What’s funny is how casual it feels once you are there. The people are warm and love to share their knowledge & passion for these wines, and the dress code is more “farm chic” as the winemakers are in the vineyards or domaines working each day alongside their crew. Because they are so serious and passionate about their craft, a lot of wineries limit the amounts of visits and tastings they do so they can focus on work. Therefore it is often about “who you know”, but there are great experiences that don’t require an inside connection. Those spots plus where to dine, stay, & more is what I hope to bring you today…
The Logistics
Getting There:
1.5hr train from Paris to Dijon + 45 min drive
Approx 3.5hr drive from Paris
Fly into Lyon airport, then train or drive to Beaune
We were coming from spending a couple of days in Lyon, so we rented a car in Lyon and drove the nearly 1hr 45min to Burgundy. When we departed, we drove 45 min to Dijon, dropped off the car, then took the 1.5hr train to Paris.
I highly recommend reading the Burgundy section of “Kevin Zraly Windows on the World Complete Wine Course” before coming here (this book is also just fab for any wine lovers). We also listened to the following podcast episodes while driving to Burgundy from Lyon which gave us a good basis of knowledge on both history and wine:
Now onto the good stuff…
Where To Stay
COMO Le Montrachet
Located in a 19-century building in the village of Puligny-Montrachet; 30 rooms & suites; wine cave that features almost 17,000 bottles; spa currently being built
Perfect For: Wine enthusiasts who want to stay in the “golden triangle”
Highlights: Location right in Puligny-Montrachet (makes getting around the golden triangle of Chassagne/Puligny/Meursault quick and easy); accommodations scattered around the town square gives a sense of place of staying in a village; great restaurant on-site
Hostellerie de Levernois
Located on 15 acres 10 minutes outside of Beaune; 34 rooms, suites and villas spread out across three buildings; Michelin-starred restaurant; beautiful new Spa Sisley
Perfect For: Couples or travelers looking for an oasis & more secluded getaway
Highlights: Family-owned property means you will see the lovely owner Severine walking around interacting with guests; Pablo on the concierge team was FANTASTIC — complimentary tastings at a few wineries & phenomenal recommendations; gorgeous grounds to walk around
Maison 1896
Located in the heart of Beaune in a restored building from 1896; 16-room boutique hotel; one of the newest hotels in Beaune; modern Vietnamese restaurant
Perfect For: Friends or couples looking to stay in the heart of Beaune, walkable to restaurants, bars & shopping
Highlights: Location, location, location (if you want to be in the heart of town!); brand new rooms/hotel
Coming Soon: Château de la Commaraine
Expected late 2025
One of Burgundy’s most iconic estates dating back to 1112 is being reimagined into a 5 star hotel; located in Pommard just 2.5km from Beaune, Château de la Commaraine will have 37 rooms, two restaurants, a spa, pool, and a winery on-site.
Where To Wine
One of the main reasons you are here! I will preface and say that the wine tasting experience in Burgundy is unlike anywhere else. Most wineries produce a small amount per year so they are not looking to sell their wine from the winery (i.e. not like Napa where you get your tasting free if you sign up for their wine club or buy X amount of bottles of wine). The smaller (and often more prestigious) wineries will most likely not allow you to have a tasting appointment unless you have a personal connection. With that being said, I have put together a list of wineries & wine bars that we went to (and some saved for next time) that are lovely and great for the common wine-lover who do not have these “inside connections”.